I knew it was big, but I didn't realize HOW big until I got the 20 page booklet (complete with advertisements and bacalao recipies) with the entire SEMANA SANTA schedule.
There are 8-10 processions per day. Each procession consists of 2 floats: first Jesus with cross and then the virgin. Each virgin or Jesus has been carved and painted (many dating back to the 17oo and 1800s); the floats are painted shiny gold or silver and all include flowers and huge candles. Each float is carried by about 20 men who switch out with other-twenty-men during the course of the procession. These floats are followed by about 50 'nazarenths' who, people dressed bizarrely like KKK. Incense is burned and it's all followed up by a screeching brass band and drums so loud you understand why everyone in Spain screams when they talk.
The booklet also has the mapped-out route for each procession...from the church where the stay during the year, past the enormous cathedral and then back again. Some processions START at 2am; some END at 2am. This goes on for 6 days. All hours of all days.
The second most popular virgin of Sevilla is here in Triana: La Esperanza. She'll be out on Friday, the biggest day. People push their way in to get near her, to brush their fingers to the silver. They cry. They faint. They feel a passion for idols that I cannot comprehend.
The most bizarre part is the fact that right now, it's 1:32 am and my street is FULL of Americans and Germans who have come for the festivities...all drunk and very loud (hence: me awake now).
This being the beginning, I don't know what to think.
Update to follow....
2 comments:
I am so amazed by how much you know about all this stuff. It sounds great & crazy & full of life! This beats any parade I've ever heard of even if it's slightly overrun with Germans and Americans. I can't wait to hear more.
It does sound interesting. But I could see it getting old after a few days. Maybe the solution is to get drunk and go out looking for flamenco dancers.
Ha!
Post a Comment